They say, if you want to experience the essence of India, then spend a day in Varanasi. Until I did that few years back, I was wondering how can this be possible. My two short days in Banaras as it was known in ancient times, not only made me believe in that saying but also opened up a different perspective about life. The popular Doha of Kabir goes like this “Rand, Sand, Seedi, Sanyasi, Inse Bacche to Sevai Kashi.”..which means Widows, bulls, stairs and saints, escape them all to reach salvation here..and so aptly describes this city as you see all of them and much more here.
Banares helped me to look within, outside of my own existence. And for the first time look at death from close quarters and accept it as part of the inevitable to look forward to..
Here are few photo glimpses from my visit...
The train landed in Benares late evening and when you step out of the station, these red flags don't let you forget that you are in a holy city.
My hotel on Assi Ghat gave a lovely morning view from the balcony.
As the day begins, flurry of activities starts and one can see pilgrims taking a boat ride to view the ghats.
The king of Darabhanga (Bihar) built this Darabhanga Ghat in 1915. Temple of Kukutesvara lies on the top .
Most of the Varanasi ghats were built after 1700 AD, when the city was ruled by the Maratha Empire.The quieter of all the ghats , this imposing structure was made of sandstone. It is interesting to note the Greek Pillars here. Also known as Munshi Ghat, it gets its name from Sridhara Narayana Munshi, who was a finance minister from Nagpur and was in charge of the creation of this palatial building. Later on the King of Bihar bought this Ghat and named it as Darbhanga Ghat.I wonder as to how much this Ghat would cost if someone has to buy it now. The palace behind the ghat was indeed bought by one of the leading hotel chain , and were in a major controversy for their utter disregard towards keeping the heritage structure in its original form.
Maanmandir Ghat was earlier known Somesvara. It was renamed when in the year 1585 Raja Savai Maan Singh (of Amber) made his palace here.On the top floor is a Observatory built by Savai Jai Singh.The other places where he established such observatories are Jaipur, Delhi, Mathura and Ujjain. There are four main astronomical instruments and renovation were made in 1850s and again in 1912 under the patronage of the Jai Singh.
On the way to the observatory such scenes reminds you that Varanasi is also famous for its 'Akhadas'. He seemed to be seriously practicing on his skills.
Amazing to see these ancient frescoes still intact on the ceiling.
The Sun Dial works so perfectly well and one is amazed to note that its calculations are almost in alignment with any modern gadget !
Prayag Ghat or Prayaga Tirtha as was known earlier together with the shrine of Prayagagesvara is one of the important and crowded ghats of Varanasi . Prayaga, also known as Tirtharaja or king of Tirthas, lies at the confluence of the Ganga, the Yamuna and the invisible Sarasvati rivers. It is commonly believed that doing rituals and taking sacred bath here provide exactly the same religious merit as those at Prayaga which is around 80 km away from here. The temple and the ghat area were reconstructed by queen of the Digpatia state (West Bengal). For the whole month of Magha (Jan-Feb.) devotees congregate here to take bath.
Life and death seem to co-exist in clock-wise manner in Varanasi.I was told that on an average everyday around 200 cremation takes place at Harishchandra and Manikarnika ghat . If life is a process, death seemed like one routine transaction here.
Varanasi surely is a place where , when you are there , gives you a feeling of being one step closer to Nirvana...
As the evening sets in, the preparation for the Ganga Aarati begins on the Dashashwamedh Ghat.The ghat is located close to the main temple of Kashi Vishwanath. Hoardes of pilgrims and tourists start descending here to book the boats and reserve a seat to get the best glimpse of the Aarti. This indeed is one of the most spectacular ghats of Varanasi. The whole energy of the place and experience of being alive among a huge humanity of unknown people is difficult to explain.
Ma Ganga , all decked up and ready for the Aarti.
Seven young good looking boys, who are students of Vedas and Upanishands perform the whole Aarti ritual in a well choreographed manner with a great synchronization. Met one of them the next day with designer Jeans , a total contrast to their silken Dhoti clad avatar during the Aarti.
The whole experience can leave a mesmerizing effect on you and it will stay on throughout for sure.
At the end of the ceremony the priests and the pilgrims go to the riverbank and pour the water in the Ganga while chanting the ritual hymns. This marks the end of the ceremony.
Oh ya, its always nice to sit on the bank late night and pop in that Chana Jor Garam .Tastes heavenly on the ghat. Spirituality of the tongue type ..:-)
Those solitary moments on the bank also gave me enough time to reflect about the " the great cremation ground" (Mahasmasana) or Manikarnika Ghat which I had passed-by on the boat ,prior to the Aarti. According to the legend,the name Manikarnika derives its origin from the dropping rings of Siva during his transcendental dance here. The ghat was rebuilt and repaired in 1730 by Bajirao Pesava, and in the year 1791 Ahilyabai Holkar rebuilt the entire ghat.One is not allowed to click photos here if you are on the ghat but then these days you have super zoom cameras, so I really don't know how the restriction works. Nor did I see any sign board anywhere stating that you can not take pictures there..at least I didn't see any..its few hooligans seem to have laid down these rules who I am told also take few dollars from the foreigners and let them take the photos.This picture was shot from the boat not for anything else but as a reminder to myself that death is a simple fact of life , to help me to choose the right path and make the right choices while I am alive.
Ganga in Varanasi takes a lot in her stride which she has been doing for centuries now.Its not only the bones and ashes, these everyday chores of life around the ghat also pollute the water.Not sure where the ambitious Ganga Clean Up project is headed to, but yes, needs a drastic clean up drive for sure.
Such ads too spoils the beauty of the ghats.Though I must say ,I liked that ad -
" Learn for Life, Another World is Possible ".Philosophy at its best in the holy city !!
Varanasi has much more to it than the temples and the ghats. A visit to the wholesale flower market can take you on a different high a tourist.
Lot to sell and lot to buy in the vibrant market area
Desi Dentists and Desi Doctors are very popular and highly sought after in Varanasi.
This Desi Dentist had a long queue of patients in spite of the fact that his "on the footpath shop " was right opposite to a MDS dentist's dispensary
Banarasi Paan : A must eat when you are in Varanasi
I splurged on the famous Ittars. And the row of shops will give you ample opportunity to do that.
Smart Marketing. He was selling waterproof watches!
I really admired the iconography on this cycle rickshaw.Truly Banarasi !!
I had to miss out on visiting so many places due to shortageof time, but did visit this "Lonely Planet" listed famous Blue Lassi Shop and enjoyed the Lassi too.
If you are a foodie, then you will love this city for the choice it offers you.
Not to forget the famous Banarasi silk saree, the must in every Indian bride's trousseau.
Hotel Ganeshaa where I spent two nights was a charmingly cute little hotel tucked away on Assi Ghat.
As my trip ended ,I saw this Bank Myna calling as if to chorus along with the thousands of pilgrims : " Om Namah Shivayah ".The journey made me realize that I was one among those thousands , on a path of the unknown , uncharted journey ahead..
